Senin, 05 Mei 2008

Grilled Sweet Potato Salad, Food Network, and the Ultimate Test of Frugality

Growing up, my family had cable TV for a single year. I don’t remember which one exactly, but I do recall Debbie Gibson’s “Lost in Your Eyes” parked at #6 on MTV’s Top Ten countdown for the duration. After that, Ma and Pa jettisoned the package, concerned about the impression Music Television (and Debbie’s awesome fedora) would make on our fresh young minds. In retrospect, it was probably a good decision, since we fortuitously missed out on the Hair Band era.

The ‘rents didn’t have cable again until 2000, when reception abruptly blotzed on in the middle of a lightning storm. All of a sudden, Pa had more fishing shows than he could handle and Ma could see St. John’s lose basketball games ANY TIME SHE WANTED. They ordered it permanently soon after, and I got my first gander at Food Network. I became a constant viewer, and beyond The Office and American Idol, it’s really the only TV I watch anymore. FN is my background noise, my recipe center, and my source for making informed fun of Sandra Lee. And even though The Boyfriend, our roommates and I chucked cable last year in an attempt to save on bills, FN miraculously remained (bizarrely, along with three Spanish-language channels and QVC). It’s like it KNEW I would wither and die without Alton and Ina.

Then it happened.

This weekend, like my first boyfriend out of college, Food Network got homesick and moved back to Ohio. (Translation: it checked out.)

So, uh … AUGH! WHAT DO I DO? A food blogger without Food Network is like a sports blogger without ESPN or Pa without 47,000 fishing shows. What if something crazy, like movement, happens on Ace of Cakes? What if Giada makes the claw hand and I miss it? What if Tony Bourdain writes another devastating critique of the channel and I don’t know what the crap he’s talking about?

It’s a conundrum. The four of us can definitely afford cable, but truly, we were fine without it. And is it worth the expenditure for a single channel? Yarg. It is my greatest test in frugality yet.

Because, seriously? Without Food Network, where will I find recipes like Emeril’s Grilled Sweet Potato Salad? I love it so hard, and though it’s a little pricier than what I’m accustomed to with a side dish, it will be much more reasonable in two months when the prices of red bell peppers and mangos come down. It’s way cheaper than what you’d get at a restaurant anyway, and there are other advantages besides: the salad is both a starch and vegetable (so you won’t need another side), it’s packed with Vitamins A and C (fiber, too), and it’s a neat changeup to throw at a barbecue (especially for your mayo-hatin’ relatives).

Arg. This is an issue. Readers, I need your opinions. To FN or not to FN? That is the question.

Grilled Sweet Potato Salad
Serves 3
Adapted from Emeril Lagasse.

1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1 sweet onion, peeled, trimmed, and cut into 1/2-inch wedges
1 mango, peeled, seeded, and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1/2 red bell pepper, stem, rib, and seeds removed, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1/8 cup olive oil
1 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon salt
Pinch cayenne

1) Start your grill.

2) Mix all ingredients in a large bowl (adding spices last) until vegetables are evenly coated.

3) Tear off 2 huge sheets of heavy aluminum foil. Layer them one on top of the other. Pour the veggie mixture in the middle and make a pouch. (Make sure it is very well-sealed.) Pop it on to the pre-heated grill and heat about half and hour, until veggies are tender enough to eat. (Or, roast in the middle of a 450°F oven for 45-50 minutes covered, then 15-20 minutes uncovered.)

4) Take pouch off grill and let it sit a few minutes to cool down. Unwrap and dump in a bowl. Salt and pepper to taste. (NOTE: Emeril calls for cilantro and peanut garnishes, as well. I leave them out because they drive the price up and really don’t add much.)

Approximate Calories, Fat, and Price Per Serving
291 calories, 9.5 g fat, $1.43

Calculations
1 pound sweet potatoes: 409 calories, 0.7 g fat, $1.03
1 sweet onions: 70 calories, 0.1 g fat, $1.04
1 mango: 135 calories, 0.6 g fat, $1.00
1/2 red bell pepper: 15 calories, 0.2 g fat, $0.84
1/8 cup olive oil: 239 calories, 27 g fat, $0.20
1 teaspoons fresh lime juice: 5 calories, 0 g fat, $0.13
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon: negligible calories and fat, $0.01
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin: negligible calories and fat, $0.01
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg: negligible calories and fat, $0.01
1/8 teaspoon salt: negligible calories and fat, $0.01
Pinch cayenne: negligible calories and fat, $0.01
TOTAL: 873 calories, 28.6 g fat, $4.29
PER SERVING: 291 calories, 9.5 g fat, $1.43

Jumat, 02 Mei 2008

Mashed Potatoes with Leeks and Sour Cream. Also, American Idol.

This post will be all about the Epicurious’ excellent Mashed Potatoes with Leeks and Sour Cream in a second, but first, it’s my moral imperative to discuss something very important to all men, women, and children across this great nation.

Seriously, what’s up with David Archuleta?

Idol fans, I don’t get it. Granted, he’s adorable in a Frodo-esque way, and I would write God the hugest thank you note if I had a 17-year-old that classy and well-behaved. I guess you can’t really argue with the voice, either. It’s rich and full and … well, all those adjectives you would normally assign to a good cup of coffee.

But, here’s my issue: the kid sings the same middle-of-the-road adult contemporary tune EVERY. SINGLE. WEEK. With his EYES CLOSED, no less. It’s like he was born in a lite FM radio station and raised by Quaalude-addled DJs. There’s only so much “My heart is full of love/you are like a dove” corniness I can take every seven days.

David Cook, on the other hand – dude may be a giant block of cheddar with worst hair since this guy, but he can flat-out rock. He knows music, too, and seems more than happy to venture outside the latter-day Rod Stewart canon of schmaltz and faux sentimentalism. Also, did you see his version of “Always Be My Baby”? He turned an okay Mariah Carey song into something totally awesome! That deserves a pity vote for ingenuity at the very least.

The Castro kid ain’t too shabby, either, and I’m not ashamed to say he’s my very first May-December crush. (Don’t tell The Boyfriend.) I consider myself the Susan Sarandon to his Tim Robbins, the Demi Moore to his Ashton Kutcher, the Cher to his … whole lot of dudes. Even with the Bonnaroo dreads and the distinct impression he’s followed Phish on tour at least twice, I’d still choose him for #1 over Archuleta.

(I’m leaving Syesha out because we all know she’s a goner next week. So pretty, though!)

All in all, sweet readers, I implore you to vote for anyone besides Archuleta: Cook, Castro, Mercado, even Paula’s evil, less self-aware twin Schmaula Mabdul will do. I like little David, and he’ll probably be Madonna-level successful once he hits puberty, but A.I. needs a winner with more joie de vive. Otherwise, it’s Ruben Studdard City, Population: 0 records sold.

And with that – on to the potatoes! I really dug these, and they came together fairly quickly for a weekday meal. For fat/food supply reasons, I made two changes from the original recipe:
  1. I halved the leeks. I only had two. I’m sure this impacted the flavor, but it came out nicely nonetheless.
  2. I also halved the butter.
I bet light sour cream would cut the fat even more, but I didn’t have any on hand. Oo! And also? While leeks tend to be pricey, they stretch pretty well and the leaves can be used to make chicken stock later. Just be sure to clean them correctly, as dirt gets trapped in 'em something awful.

Lightened Mashed Potatoes with Leeks and Sour Cream
Serves 6
Adapted from Bon Appetit/Epicurious.

1-1/2 tablespoons butter
2 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
1-1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
2-1/4 cups water
1/4 cup sour cream

1) In a large pot or dutch oven, heat butter over medium heat. When melted, add leeks. Cook around 15 minutes, or until they start to gain some color. (This was only 8 minutes for me, so keep an eye on it.) Add potatoes and water. Salt to taste. Jack heat up to high. When it starts boiling, cover the pot and cook around 20 minutes. Take cover off. Potatoes should be tender. Check with a knife if you're unsure. Boil coverless "until almost all liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes."

2) Get in there with a masher and mash until potatoes are a little lumpy. Add sour cream. Stir. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Approximate Calories, Fat, and Price Per Serving
148 calories, 4.8 g fat, $0.56

Calculations
1-1/2 tablespoons butter: 153 calories, 17.3 g fat, $0.07
2 large leeks (white and pale green parts only): 109 calories, 0.5 g fat, $2.00
1 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled: 525 calories, 0.6 g fat, $1.08
2 1/4 cups water: negligible calories and fat, $0.00
1/4 cup sour cream: 103 calories, 10.1 g fat, $0.20
TOTAL: 890 calories, 28.5 g fat, $3.35
PER SERVING (TOTAL/6): 148 calories, 4.8 g fat, $0.56

(Photo courtesy of holamun2.)

CHG Favorites of the Week

Food Blog of the Week
Kalyn’s Kitchen
This gorgeous South Beach Diet-based cooking blog just celebrated its third birthday, with good reason. The food is simple, healthy, colorful, and beautiful to look at. Like a, um, rainbow. But, y'know, on a computer screen.

Food Book of the Week
A Tree Grows in Brooklyn by Betty Smith
I just finished a series of novels by lady authors, including Zadie Smith’s White Teeth, The Emperor’s Children by Claire Messud, and Betty Smith’s defining volume. And I gotta say - Betty blew the other women out of the water. The best parts, at least in terms of this blog, were her descriptions of turn-of-the-century Brooklyn food: the penny candy, the sweet buns, and the enormous variety of dinners her mom could whip up with some bread and water. So good. (Incidentally, there aren’t enough people named Betty these days. It’s got verve and sass to spare - let's revive it!)

Food Comedy of the Week
C“rice”is in the U.S.: Food Shortage on The Daily Show
Global Food Shortages from The Colbert Report
You can always count on Comedy Central late night. Here, TDS and TCR provide two fantastic accompaniments to yesterday’s article about the food crisis. The underlying message is “Don’t panic,” but the overlying one is “Hee.” Oh, and watch closely for the debut of the Cannibal News Network. (Thanks to Serious Eats for the links.)

Food Organization of the Week
FreeRice.com
It's a word game! It's a philanthropy! It's both in one! Each time you answer a FreeRice vocabulary question, you donate 20 grains of the stuff to the U.N.'s World Food Program. (Thanks to reader Autumn for the suggestion.)

Food Quote of the Week
Peggy Hill: You're 12 years old, and drinking a beer.
Bobby Hill: I didn't even like it.
Hank Hill: Now you're just trying to get me mad.
-King of the Hill

Food Tip of the Week
To quickly hull a strawberry, push a drinking straw up through the bottom. It will push out the stem and the middle part in one fell swoop. (Thanks Betty Crocker!)

Untried, Cheap Healthy Recipe of the Week
Grape and Feta Salad with Rosemary at Serious Eats
In which a few simple ingredients meld in their purest forms to create something much greater than the individual parts. Whether it’s teamwork or communism I’m not sure, but man, it looks good.

Food Video of the Week
Rock Lobster – B-52s
Last year, a few of us decided that all bad news needs to be delivered in Fred Schneider’s voice. Not only would this ease the blow, but it would make everything HILARIOUS. Try it out for yourself: “You’ve got … a SPLINTER!” Don’t you feel better now?



Extra Special Totally Unrelated Bonus of the Week
Concrete Blonde covering Leonard Cohen’s “Everybody Knows”
Man, I wish more people knew about Johnette Napolitano. If she’s not the greatest chick rock singer ever, then she’s definitely in the top two (Ann Wilson being the other). In this 15-year-old 120 Minutes performance, she just belts. BELTS. Watch. Love.



(Photo courtesy of Alles Bleibt Anders.)

Kamis, 01 Mei 2008

The Ultimate Guide to Understanding the Food Crisis: How it Started, Who it Hurts Most, and How to Solve the Problem

If you’ve picked up a paper the last few weeks, odds are you’ve seen a frenzy of stories about rising food prices. And if even if you haven’t, you’ve definitely felt the hit in your wallet. American grocery costs have risen around 5% over the last year, while salaries have only gone up 3.5%. That means we’re paying more for loaves of bread and our paychecks aren’t making up the difference. And in certain nations? The food situation is so bad, they WISH they had our problems.

While some journalists are taking the age-old EVERYBODY PANIC! approach, most are calmly disseminating inflation information as best they can. Unfortunately, it’s complicated stuff - difficult to explain and even harder to cover thoroughly. While I’ve perused dozens of great articles on one certain aspect of the crisis (global impact, farmer prosperity, etc.), I haven’t seen one that gives an overview of the situation: why prices are rocketing, how it affects the entire globe, and where we’re going to come up with solutions.

So, here’s a shot. Hopefully, it’ll help clarify a few things. And readers, if I’ve gotten something wrong (which is pretty normal around here), please set me right.

WHAT IT IS (in a sentence)

For a variety of interconnected reasons, food prices are rising globally, causing economic strife in the U.S. and dangerous shortages in dozens of poorer countries.

WHY IT’S HAPPENING

1) Population growth. According to The New York Times, “the world’s developing countries have been growing about 7 percent a year, an unusually rapid rate by historical standards.” Simply, this increases demand for food in countries that can’t necessarily keep up.

2) Global adoption of the Western diet, especially in India and China. Newly-affluent nations are seeing high numbers of people move into the middle class. This is ostensibly a good thing, since more have access to health care and housing. However, many are also switching to the Western diet, choosing meat, dairy, and convenience foods over traditional chow like vegetables and grains. This puts a strain on current production methods, driving prices up.

3) Bad weather. This one’s pretty simple. Australia, Canada, and Ukraine, all huge exporters of rice and grains, got meteorologically screwed last year. It put stress on other sources to make up the difference. Forecasts are looking up, though, so that’s good news.

4) Gas prices. Oil is ludicrously expensive the world over, making it hard to grow, fertilize, harvest, package, and transport food – especially to places that can’t afford it.

5) Diversion of crops to make biofuel/ethanol. Since fuel prices are insane, the U.S. is trying to come up with cheaper alternatives, focusing mainly on corn-based ethanol. In fact, Newsweek's Daniel Gross states that, “Last year, one fifth of the U.S. corn crop was diverted to ethanol refineries.” This means three things: A) corn prices rise because it’s now a more valuable commodity, B) the costs of OTHER crops increase since they’re scarcer than before, and C) meat goes up as well, since corn is the main source of animal feed.

6) Investors. These guys are betting on high food prices over the next few years, driving costs up even more. This hurts every single person but the investor, “upsetting business plans, sparking inflation, causing political instability and inflicting widespread economic pain.” (If you hear of someone doing this, smack him. I give you permission.)

HOW IT’S AFFECTING/WILL AFFECT AMERICANS

First off, unless something apocalyptic happens, U.S. citizens will not starve. Many won’t even notice there’s an issue. Let’s get that out of the way, so we can stop adding to the hysteria by hoarding 50-pound bags of rice from Costco. In the meantime, here are the real effects:

1) Rising costs passed on to the consumer. This one’s the doozy. All of the aforementioned reasons (but mostly the last four) have contributed to skyrocketing prices on common edibles. According to various sources, milk is up about 15%, white carbs (pasta and bread) about 13%, and eggs a staggering 25% over 12 months ago. The New York Times claims, “With a few exceptions, nearly every grocery category measured by the Labor Department … has increased in the last year.” If this really is a full-on recession (which, yep), it probably won’t get better anytime soon, if at all.

2) Inadequate nutrition for the poor. “The Congressional Budget Office projects that a record 28 million Americans will require food stamps this year,” says Newsweek. This is not so good, as it means people in a lower economic bracket are increasingly unable to afford fundamental, healthy meals. Food banks are taking a hit, too, and one Iowa director “estimates that her group's food bills have increased 30 to 40 percent in the past year.”

3) Smaller portions and packaging. Next time you visit a supermarket, you might notice the 1.5-liter containers of soda and orange juice going for the same price the 2-liter guys used to. It’s the same with Skippy Peanut Butter (old: 18oz, new: 16.2 oz), Ramen (old: 4 oz, new: 3.5 oz), and a slew of other products, as companies are looking to save a buck wherever they can.

4) Restaurant cutbacks. Eatery owners – especially family-owned independent ones - are being hit HARD by inflation. Wholesalers raised prices over 7% last year, transportation costs are mounting, and customers are cooking at home more, reducing earnings. According to The Wall Street Journal's Juliet Chung, “Ruth's Chris Steak House saw fourth-quarter profit in 2007 fall 62% compared with the same period a year earlier. Similarly, fourth-quarter profit was down 48% at Domino's Pizza and 35% at the Cheesecake Factory.” Restaurants are compensating by serving smaller portions, using cheaper cuts of meat, and offering more pasta dishes, but the benefits may be marginal.

5) Ethanol controversy. Expect this to be a hot-button issue over the next presidency, as we search for alternatives to oil. The problem is, a lot of people are making bucks off ethanol, including farmers who’ve never seen that kind of money before. Which brings us to …

6) Happy farmers. One of the positive side effects of this whole conundrum is that American farmers are finally seeing profits. David Streitfeld of the New York Times says, “The Agriculture Department forecasts that farm income this year will be 50 percent greater than the average of the last 10 years.” Of course, fuel, fertilizer, and labor (among other things) are becoming more expensive, too, and there’s that whole volatility/who-knows-what-will-happen-next-year issue. But for now, Mr. Green Jeans in Nebraska is probably doing okay.

WHO IT’S HITTING HARDEST
(Hint: it’s not the U.S.)


If prices have skyrocketed for Americans, they’ve been blown out of the stratosphere for a number of nations around the globe. This sampling of statistics from the Economist is just to give you an idea:

"Last year wheat prices rose 77% and rice 16%. These were some of the sharpest rises in food prices ever. But this year the speed of change has accelerated. Since January, rice prices have soared 141%; the price of one variety of wheat shot up 25% in a day."

The U.N. has called it "a silent tsunami which knows no borders sweeping the world,” and it’s no wonder why. 121 countries are experiencing crisis-level food shortages, and there are estimates that 100 million people “on every continent” will go hungry. Egypt, Mexico, India, Cameroon, Indonesia, and Haiti have already seen protests and riots, and if food production and distribution continues as-is, the situation will only deteriorate.

The saddest part is, according to one economist, “In 2003, we were talking about ending world hunger—and it looked like a sensible target.” It’s something to think of next time I complain that egg prices went up again.

LARGE-SCALE SOLUTIONS

1) The United Nations task force. The U.N. has developed a two-pronged plan to address the immediate needs of the hungry and provide tools needed for self-sustainable farming. This will come at a cost of $1.7 billion, $475 million of which has already been secured.

2) Small-scale agriculture. Globally, farmers have suddenly become V.I.P.s, as millions increasingly depend on their crops and labor opportunities to survive. Due to this trend, many are citing smaller, more localized growing as a possible fix to the food shortage. Malawi in particular has been heralded as an example, as their harvest increased 100% in a single year after officials “established a special fund to help its farmers get fertilizer and high-yield seeds.”

3) Moving away from ethanol. Again, a controversial subject, but experts say it could help alleviate budget strain.

4) Time. Since growing food takes awhile, new agricultural strategies won’t produce results for a few years now. But positive weather forecasts, a slight shift back toward wheat farming, and plans put into affect now mean good things for the future.

PERSONAL SOLUTIONS

1) Economize. Plan ahead. Recycle. DIY. Cut costs. Shop smart. Employ ideas you’ve only read about up ‘til now.

2) Stay informed. Watch the news. Read the paper. Research the issues.

3) Take action. Brush up on local politics. Attend a town hall meeting. Write your senator. Boycott. Protest the shameful profiteering of oil companies.

4) Donate and volunteer. The benefits of giving money are immediate and apparent. As for volunteering, it will not only cut labor costs for philanthropies, but you’ll get to experience up close what the food problem means for so many people. Charity Navigator and Idealist.org are great places to start.

5) Don’t panic. And stop hoarding food, dangit!

And that’s it. Readers, I’d love to hear opinions and (definitely) corrections. Where do you see this all going? What are you doing to alleviate the situation? Bring the noise.

FURTHER READING/SOURCES

Assessing the Global Food Crisis (BBC, 4/08)
Biting Into Your Budget (Newsweek, 4/08)
Costs Surge for Stocking the Pantry (New York Times, 3/08)
Cutback Cuisine (Wall Street Journal, 3/08)
How to be a Foodie Without Breaking the Bank (SFGate, 3/08)
How to End the Global Food Shortage (Time, 4/08)
The New Face of Hunger (Economist, 4/08)
Now it's the $6 Loaf of Bread (Newsweek, 5/08)
Price Volatility Adds to Worry on U.S. Farms (New York Times, 4/08)
Readers Write in With More Examples of Shrinking Products (Consumerist, 3/08)
U.N. Sets Up Food Crisis Task Force (Time, 4/08)
What's Going on With Rice and Flour? (Chicago Tribune, 4/08)
The World's Growing Food-Price Crisis (Time, 2/08)

(Photo courtesy of Flickr member (kerry) .)